| Awoke
early as usual after another great night's sleep. Off on
an early morning walk from the P Guesthouse along the neighbouring
streets. Great seeing the village come to life. We watched
the monks collecting their food (forgot our camera on this
walk), watch a young apprentice monk not concentrating on
his job of collecting food, watching & looking at everything else especially us. Went to Dedee's
bakery for toast & coffee, the toast here is only half cooked
& the coffeee is served with sweetened condensed milk, bit
sweet but.......
We then booked out, said goodbye to staff & Faah (a beautiful
Burma lady who was a sachool teacher in Burma. She left Burma
& now runs the P Guesthouse).
Off in our songthaew
for about 2 hours until we arrived at a Karen village, the
people here have come from Burma & have settled here. They have had
some help from the Queen to grow rice etc. & to become reasonably
self sufficient. We started our visit at the school where the
children go until they are about 6 years old. By then they have
learnt to speech Thai & are ready to travel to a Thai school
in a nearby village. The women of the village performed a National
Dance for us & we then went in to play with the children. |
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The
Karen, or Yang, (called Kaliang or Yang in Thai), belong to the
Sino-Tibetan linguistic family. They are found along most of the
length of the Thai Burmese border. Their pop. is about 350,000
in Thailand, with over four million in Burma. |
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This
group is the bigest in Thailand.
They
are concentrated mainly in Mae Hong Son province, and western
areas of Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and Phayao. Karen are to be found
also in the provinces of Tak, Kanchanaburi and Phrachuap Khiri
Khan, Lampang, Lamphun, Sukhothai, Phrae, Kamphaeng Phet, Phetchaburi,
Uthai Thani, Suphanburi and Ratchaburi.
Over
the past 200 years they have tended to move eastward away from
Burma into Thailand because of political conflicts with the Burmese.
There
are four main subgroups:
The main groups are the Sgaw Karen (White Karen who call themselves
Pga-gan-Yaw and are the most numerousor ) and the Pwo Karen
who are also known as White Karen. The Pa-0 who are also known
as Black Karen. The famous Padung, or "long neck" Karen,
and the Kayah [ Red Karen].
The
Karen costume for women is very attractive and distinctive. Unmarried
girls wear loose white V-necked shifts, decorated with Job's Tear
seeds at the seams. Married women wear blouses and skirts in bold
colors, predominantly red or blue. Men wear blue baggy trousers,
with typically red striped shirts, a simplified version of the
women's blouses. Black Karen men wear black shirts with a red
cummerbund or head scarf. Karen women are skilled in sewing and
dyeing, and dress in white blouse sarong combinations with colorful
patterns or beads for trim. They wear their long hair tied back
in a bun and covered with white scarves.
Karen
villages are located in valleys or mountain slops at an average
height of 500 metres. Karen houses are not usually large. Adult
children usually leave the home when married - there is no extended
family housing in most Karen villages. Houses are on stilts, made
of bamboo or teak. Central steps lead to a porch, with a store
room or kitchen to one side, a living area and bedroom on the
other. Beneath the house is a working area, often with a foot
operated rice ponder.
The
Karen are gentle, peaceful, and cooperative people. The Karen
have strict laws against immorality. They are matrilineal societies,
so that two married women do not live in the same house. In some
villages, the punishment for adultery is death. The village chief
has great power over his community, and is regarded as the spiritual
as well as the administrative leader. Kinship is traced through
the maternal line and residence is matrilocal. The Karen practise
monogamy, and most households are nuclear. In all cases, the family
represents the most important basic cooperative unit in all domestic
affairs.
They,
like all the tribes, are skilled farmers who practice crop rotation,
and they also hunt for game, with spears and crossbows, and use
tame elephants to help them clear land. Karen construct terraced
fields for wet rice but are also engaged in swidden cultivation.
Rice and vegetables are their major crops. Some Karen grow opium.
They raise pigs, chickens, water buffaloes, cattle and elephants.
Some animals, mostly chickens, are killed for ceremonial offerings.
The Karen use to hire out their elephants or work with them in
elephant camps, performing shows for tourists.
Karen
are originally animist, but about 25% of Karen living in Thailand
have been converted to christianity by western missionaries.
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